fadeaccompli: (exercise)
( Oct. 16th, 2011 01:14 pm)
They took down my nemesis route at the gym, so it's a good thing I actually managed to send it recently; otherwise I'd have been a bit disappointed, given how often I'd gotten near the top. And the V0+, which was a pity--I liked that route!--and another V0, all three of which were replaced by a single V0 and a low V1. Flashed the former, and the latter...well.

If you accept that the electrical outlet on the opposite wall was a standard feature and On, then, hey, I sent my first V1! But I kinda suspect 'stem wildly and end up using an outlet as an early foothold' was not the intended approach to that route. So, hey, I'll just take comfort in knowing I can do most of a V1. That's still something.

And there's a rather frustrating V0 that they just set, where a differently frustrating V0 was before. This one starts on a horizontal wall, which actually isn't the hard point; I can go around that corner for the second hold pretty easily. But the hold after that requires, due to positioning, that I pull myself up pretty much on arm strength alone to grab the third hold... and arm strength? Especially when hanging almost horizontally? Really not my strong point. As it were.

It's frustrating because instead of being outright impossible (as is the case with a lot of walls with steep inclines), or something I could do with more practice and skill, it's something I could do with just a little more strength--or a few more inches of reach, not that I can really work my way up to More Reach. With about ten tries, I got to that third hold well enough to actually grip it twice, and one of those times went almost to the top of the route. But every time after that one, I just failed to get a grip entirely. Very frustrating.

I prefer skill limitations to strength limitations. Skill feels like something that only moves forward, and that enough practice and instruction will eventually overcome. Strength is in that suspiciously nebulous area of Physical Condition, which I do not trust in the slightest, and which seems prone to swinging wildly in different directions for no apparent reason.

But dammit, I want to get through that route. It seems interesting.
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